Dining Briefs: JoeDoe - The New York Times

Latkes, haroseth and matzo brei are some of the Eastern European Jewish touches Joseph Dobias employs at his tiny restaurant, JoeDoe. Food|AnAshkenaziAccentintheEastVillagehttps://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/06/dining/06brief-002.htmlGivethisarticleAdvertisementContinuereadingthemainstoryJOEDOE45EastFirstStreet(FirstAvenue),(212)780-0262,chefjoedoe.comInacitywithsomanyofusofshtetldescent,whydon’tmorechefsemployAshkenaziaccents?JosephDobiasdoes.Latkes,harosethandmatzobreiaresomeoftheEasternEuropeanJewishtouchesMr.Dobias,formerlyofSavoy,employsonthefrequentlychangingmenuathistinyEastVillagerestaurant,JoeDoe.They’reatributetotheparentsofhislifeandbusinesspartner,JillSchulster,who—withJewishstapleslikechickenliverandbrisket—introducedMr.Dobias,anItalian-American,toflavorshefoundnewandinspiring.HissignaturesandwichelevatesfolksycreamychickenliverbypairingitwithafoodNewYorkersembrace:bacon.It’scalledtheConflictedJew($10).ImageEUROPEANROOTSAtJoeDoeintheEastVillage,duckhashandporkjowl.Credit...KonradFiedlerforTheNewYorkTimesIcravedmoreconflictfromit.Bacon-wrappedchickenliversareanoldpartystaple;thecombolongagolostitsfrisson.Here,thethickchallahtoastthreatenstooverwhelmitsfillings.ButthereareplentyofbrawlingmatchesinMr.Dobias’scooking,boldideasandtwistsonestablisheddishes.Atbrunch,duckstandsinforcornedbeefinthehash($17);friedporkjowldoublesforCanadianbaconontheBenedict($12).Theformerisrich,gameyandsatisfyingtoppedwithpoachedduckeggs(anextra$2).Thelattergoestoosparinglyonthejowl,whichiscrispyoutside,chewyinside,deliciouslysalty,butatease.AmongMr.Dobias’sinfluences,AsianappearsasoftenasAshkenazi.Bokchoy’ssweet,crunchynaturepoppedwhenitwastempura-fried($9).Toobaditsatatopa“kimcheesoup”bereftofthenamesake’sfunk.Buthangersteak($26)wasawinner,withanAsiansauceandhouse-madeChinesenoodles.Acrisppotatolatkeaddedwhimsy.Mr.Dobias’sheftycookingbegsforMs.Schulster’sinspiredcocktails.TheMarylandCrabBoil($10)blendsOldBayseasoningwithlime,honeyandSiembraAzultequilaforalip-smackingmid-Atlanticmargarita.Evenbetterareher“preparedbeers”($11):artisanalliquorsandtoucheslikepreservedorangeorpeanutdustbringoutbeer’schic.AdvertisementContinuereadingthemainstory